Car Jacking Points

If you’ve ever tried to change a tire or crawl under your car, the first question is always the same: where do I put the jack? Put it in the wrong spot and you can bend metal or worse, have the car slip off the jack. Get it right, and the job is quick and safe. This guide lays it out in plain English so you know exactly where to jack up a car without guessing.

Jack Points on a Car (Quick Answer)

Many passenger vehicles have designated lifting areas near the pinch welds behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels, but the correct locations vary by vehicle. Always verify the approved jacking and lifting points in the vehicle manufacturer's instructions before lifting.

Some cars, especially rear-wheel drive, let you pick the whole front or rear up at once. That might be a front or rear crossmember or the rear differential. But here’s the deal: don’t guess. If your owner’s manual doesn’t call it out, don’t use it. Manuals are written that way for a reason.

When lifting with a two-post lift, always line the arms up with the manufacturer’s recommended car lift points. Most vehicles will have diagrams in the owner’s manual showing exactly where the arms should sit under the frame or reinforced spots. Once the arms are in place, raise the vehicle a few inches off the ground and give it a good shake—this “stability check” makes sure nothing shifts before you go all the way up. Skipping this step is one of the easiest mistakes to avoid.Once the vehicle is stable and you've followed the lift manufacturer's operating procedure, continue raising the vehicle to the required working height.

If you're choosing a 2-post lift and aren't sure whether the arms will reach these locations, see our 2-Post Lift Arm Reach Guide to understand how arm dimensions, vehicle dimensions, and lift-point location affect compatibility.

If you haven't measured your vehicle yet, our How to Measure Your Vehicle for a 2-Post Car Lift guide explains which measurements to gather before comparing car lift models.

1. Park on solid ground. Concrete is best. Asphalt can sink under the jack, especially in the heat.
2. Secure the car. Put it in Park (or first gear), set the brake, and chock the wheels that stay down.
3. Find the right point. Use the pinch weld notch, frame rail, or a center point if the manual says it’s okay.
4. Line up the jack. Center it on the spot. Use a rubber pad if you’re going on a pinch weld so it doesn’t fold.
5. Lift slow. Watch that the car rises even and the jack stays straight.
6. Set jack stands. Drop the car gently onto stands at proper points. Don’t trust the jack alone.
7. Shake check. Give the car a good shove before you crawl under. If it wobbles, fix it.

• Low-slung cars: Use a low-profile jack or ramps first so you can reach the points.
• EVs and hybrids: Many have special pads—never jack under the battery.
• Two-post lifts: Put arms where the manual diagram shows, then do a quick shake check before lifting high.
• Rusty welds: If a seam looks bent or crusty, skip it and find another approved point.

• Skipping the manual. Center points vary by car.
• Lifting on asphalt. It can sink and tip your stands.
• Putting stands in the wrong spot. They need to be on reinforced areas too.
• Rushing. Take the extra minute to check stability—it beats fixing bent rocker panels

If you're researching lifting equipment for your garage, you can also compare our complete selection of vehicle lifts for your garage, including 2-post, 4-post, scissor, portable, and other lift configurations.

Safe lifting comes down to one thing: use the right spots. Behind the front wheels, ahead of the rears, or center points if your manual says so. Always use stands, always chock your wheels, and always give it a shake before crawling under. Following the vehicle manufacturer's lifting instructions and using properly rated equipment helps reduce the risk of vehicle damage or instability.